Engine Assembly Part 1 - Large Frame

• Start with the Flywheel side of the engine case
• Using the torch Heat up the case (for about a minute or two at the Selector Rod Bearing
• DON'T BE SCARED YOU WONT MESS IT UP

Apply a thin layer of Grease to the Selector Rod Bearing

Using the Punch for the Flyside Seal and Bearing gently tap the bearing in (if you heated the case up long enough it should just fall in)

Next install the Flyside Bearing into the case on this Model it is a two part Bearing (one half goes into the case and the other on the Crankshaft

Apply a thin layer of Grease

Heat up the Case

Use the Punch for the Flyside Seal and Bearing

Gently Tap it in

• Now Install the NEW Kick Start Buffer
• ALWAYS Replace these

Remember there are TWO of them

The Best way to install them is to apply a thin layer of Grease to each side

Use a Flat Head Screwdriver the guide them all the way in

• Now flip the case over and install a new O-ring into the Kick Start Quadrant Opening
• It comes in the Gasket Set

Get the Kick Start Quadrant and Spring ready

• Inspect the Kick Start Quadrant for any damage at the splines where the Kick Start Lever attaches.
• It is a good idea to test fit the lever before you install it, this could save you a headache later

Also inspect the teeth

Also inspect the other side to make sure there are no dents dings or other defects

Apply a thin layer of Grease

• Slide it in (It should Slide in EASY)
• If there is any resistance it may be Bent in which case REPLACE it

NOTE: This hole accepts the tab on the Spring

This is the Tab

Install the Spring

Now Hold the Kick Start Quadrant all the way to you right and twist the spring to the left until the tab on the top fits into the Slot on the Kick Start Quadrant

This is what it should look like

Get your Engine Stand out

Put the other side of the Engine Case into the Stand

Install the Oil Sling

It can only go in one way

• Now the Cush Drive
• Push the Spindle all the way out and slide the Cush into place

• Push the Spindle slightly in just enough to hold it up
• You still have to install the Needle Bearings

Begin by liberally applying Grease to the Race on the Spindle

• Depending on your model you should have either 21 or 24 of these
• Grease your finger (so you will be able to pick them up easier)

Start to put them in

• It may take you a few tries just stick with it
• Make sure you keen an eye out it you drop one
• If you do drop any clean them off all that grease will make EVERYTHING stick to them (bearings + dirt = bad)

Once they are all in push the Spindle all the way in

Spin the motor around

• Install the Lock Washer
• NOTE the tap on the washer

It lines up with a slot on the Spindle

Next install the Nut (13mm)

Now bend the tabs over the nut to lock it on place

This is what it should look like

• Now the Rear Hub Bearing
• Heat the Case

Grease the Rear Hub Bearing

• Slide it in
• If you need to you can use the old one to tap it in but usually these slid right in by hand

Install the Circlip

• Now install the Drive Shaft
• Slide it in as far as you can by hand

Use the Crank Installer tool

Slide the sleeve over the tool

Screw it onto the Drive Shaft and tighten the nut while holding the tool still

Now install 4TH Gear

3RD

2ND

And Finally 1ST

Now install the Shoulder Washer (when you rebuilt the gear stack you would have decided the correct size)

Now install the circlip

• Now install the Main Bearing on the Clutch Side
• First a little Grease

Heat the Case

Heat it some more

Place the Main Bearing evenly into the hole

Use the Punch Tool for the Clutch Side

• Tap it in
• DON'T beat the crap out of it there is a circlip on the other side that you can break out of its recess (if you do this you ruin the case)
• Tap it a little check to other side, Tap it a little check the other side, ect.....

Install the Circlip

• Moving on the Crankshaft
• Install the Crankshaft Wedge

Apply a thin layer of Grease

Grab the Inner part of the Fly Side Bearing

Heat it up (NOT TOO MUCH)

Grab it with the Channel Locks

• It should slide right on
• If you need to you can use part of the Crank Installer to tap it on

Grease the outside of the Clutch Side Seal

• Put it in
• If you need to you can use the Punch Tool for the Clutch Side to tap it in

Grease the clutch side of the Crankshaft (the shorter side)

Also Grease the Seal (this will help it Crankshaft slide in without popping the spring out of the Seal

Get the Crankshaft started

Use the Crank Installer with the proper tip

Screw it onto the Crankshaft

Use a Rubber Band to keep the Connecting Rod from binding up on the Case half

Tighten the Nut while holding the tool

Install the Case Gasket form your NEW Gasket Set

A little dab of Grease in a few spots will help it stay in place

• Inspect the Kick Star Gear for worn teeth
• If you have the motor apart I would REPLACE it

Grease the Cush Drive

INSTALL the Kick Star Gear with the teeth facing the Cush

On the other half of the case apply a dab if grease to hold the Kick Start Spring

Install the Kick Start Spring (wide side down)

Put the Kick Start Lever on

You don't need to put the bolt in at this point

NOTE: This Dowel....................

................lines up with this hole

Grease

Grease

As you begin to put the halves together push down slightly on the Kick Start Lever to allow the Kick Start Quadrant to mesh with the Kick Star Gear

Now tap it the rest of the way together with a rubber hammer

and here

Install all 12 of the Engine Bolts

• Each one has a Flat Washer, Lock Washer, and Nut in that order
• Start in the middle making an x pattern and work your way around tightening them more each time the final torque setting should be

• Don't forget the Gear Cable Holder
• It goes on the long case bolt that probably didn't come out when you took the motor apart

Spin the motor around and install the Clutch Side Woodruff Key

• Now install the Clutch Washer NOTE: it has a bevel on one side, this faces the Crankshaft
• Also NOTE: the slot for the Clutch Side Woodruff Key

The Clutch also has a slot for the Clutch Side Woodruff Key

• Line them up and slide it on.
• You may need to spin the CushDrive with a screwdriver to get the teeth to mesh with the clutch teeth.

Install the Clutch Tab Washer

Hand tighten the Clutch Nut

Put on of the Clutch Cover Bolts in

Install the Clutch Holding Tool

Clutch Nut Tool

• Tighten the nut
• Pull the Clutch Holding Tool and the Bolt

Bend one of the tabs from the Clutch Tab Washer into the Clutch Nut to lock it in place

Install the Pressure Plate

Start it on the bottom

Use a Screwdriver to push the Retaining Clip down and it will slide in

Now install the Clutch Cover

• Install the Three Clutch Cover bolts
• Each should have a Flat Washer, Lock Washer, and Bolt

Now for the Piston and Cylinder

Install the Cylinder Base Gasket

Install the Small End Bearing

NOTE: The Piston has an arrow stamped on it that will face the Exhaust port or DOWN.

• Put the Wrist pin through the piston then through the Small end Bearing
• It should slide in easy with very little resistance (A little two stroke oil will help you alot put some on the pin before you start.

Install both Circlips to lock the Wrist pin in

• Coat the inside of the Cylinder with a bit of 2 Stroke
• Slightly pinch the Piston Rings (they fit into two grooves on the Piston) to allow the Cylinder to slide over

Once you get past the Rings slide it the rest of the way on.

Now you are ready for the Head